Handcrafted vs industrial confection
The way in which a garment is made is very important, both for what is seen outside, and for the element and interior parts, invisible when the garment is finished.
The interlining of the jacket for example is an essential component of the garment, but which is not visible. Our jackets can be lined in two different ways:
1) Traditional interlining "Full Canvas", made entirely by hand
2) Half Canvas, partially hand-made
Industrial interlining (3) is a technique that we do not use at Monogramme.
Please find here after some more technical details ...
Source : Stiff-collar
1. Traditional Interlining - Full Canevas
The "traditional confection" or "full canvas", uses a canvas body, on which are also added breastplates and is floating down.
In this technique, the lapels are stitched with herringbone (and not heat-sealed) stitches. This is the most sustainable method that few mills realize is becoming more and more important. These parts are expensive to make, and therefore to buy, but last longer.
This is closest to the traditional bespoke.
2. Half Canvas
The second method that is most common among high-end tailor made makers is the semi-traditional confection.
It consists in creating a real plastron (3), with various layers, like the bougran or the horsehair, on the canvas of body. It is a special canvas, coated at the bottom of the jacket and heat-resistant resin backings (5).
The plastrons are therefore floating, as to a great extent, but the rest adheres to the wool, and the solidarise.
3. Industrial interlining (not available at Monogramme)
To make a suit, whether in industrial confection or bespoke, it is necessary to have against woolen front of the jacket, a canvas (or canvas tailor), make a cloth. This cloth (2), traditionally made of coarse wool specially woven for this purpose, makes it possible to stiffen the two fronts, to give them body and structure.
On this canvas, which goes from the shoulder to the bottom of jacket rest: the epaulettes, the breast plastrons, the lapels, the pockets etc ...
This canvas is the armature of the jacket. Applying it is a delicate step, especially on striped fabrics, which is called 'put on canvas'.
The most common in the trade is to skip this step by fusing the entire front (seam seams), including the lapel, with a fusible fabric (1). This fine mesh, often synthetic, is coated with resins that melt under the effect of a heating press (or an iron) to adhere to the wool. It is a quick method, but that does not last in time, the fabric coming off as a result of the various washes and especially the steam that make poach the fabric (appearance of bubbles under the wool). This first diagram illustrates the location of a jacket (front + small side with pockets) and its heat-sealed back.